Drill Press Maintenance Guide

We all want to get as long as possible out of our tools especially the more expensive ones that is why we should always try to maintain our tools and machinery regularly as a preventative measure.

In fact, preventative maintenance is the norm in commercial and industrial professions because it is so effective at saving money by preventing broken equipment and lost time.

Drill presses are normally built as robust and tough machines but this doesn’t mean they don’t need to be maintained and lubricated from time to time.
They are also a fairly simple machine which also makes them highly reliable tools, almost bulletproof if looked after correctly.

With the correct maintenance, you will prevent poor accuracy and underperforming use of the drill press.

Some of the common components of the drill press that should be checked are:

The pulleys and drive belt

The belts and pulleys are heavily utilized in a drill press so need to be checked over from time to time.

Remove the cover and check they are in good condition. are they still a nice fit or have any become slack and stretched over time.

This will cause your drill press to lose power and the belt could start slipping losing all the performance of the engine.

Has the belt got all its teeth or grooves? The belt should be in good condition and shouldn’t be over tightened as this will damage the belt and wear it down and make it worn down before its time.

Lubricating for better performance

Lubricating is vital to keeping your drill press performing and running how it should.
You should always refer to the manufacturer’s manual when you are lubricating those moving parts to ensure you select the correct oil and lubricant.

The drill press spindle

Not normally any problem with this as it is built from solid steel and only over a very long time will this become worn at the teeth of the cogs.

The chuck

Another normally solid component of the drill press but it can become worn over time as well. Check it for rush and treat it to some lubrication from time to time.

Table and column

These are normally reliable and very rarely have any problems but still worth a visual inspection just to check for cracks or fractures in the frame.

Rust

Rust whilst very rare can be a problem, with the drill press is mostly constructed from metal when it is exposed to moisture in the air over a long time it will start to rust, It is simple to prevent by using some anti-rust lubrication on any moving or exposed parts.

Keeping the dust and debris out.

 

The drill press is normally protected from the dust and debris by the protective casing they come built with but there are parts that still are exposed and dust is very difficult to stop as it is very fine and this gives it the chance to get in any tiny gap or hole.

The casing is easily removed on most models and you can gain access to the insides with just a few bolts or screws.

Clean the dust and debris when it has had heavy use or has been operated quite a few times.

Drill bit maintenance

Often worked into the ground and then thrown away but the life can be extended with the correct usage of the drill press and keeping the drill bits sharp.

Drill bits can often become warped or bent from being used whilst the end is dull or from the excessive force on the spindle caused by the operator trying to get through tough materials that the drill bit wasn’t built to withstand or trying to drill faster by putting more pressure on the drill than should be.

The cable and plug

This is a very important one. First, unplug your drill press and then visually inspect the length of the cable for any signs of damage.

I like to run it through my hand by holding the cable in my hand and pulling it through feeling for any nicks or abnormalities in the cables outer protective cover. These steps will normally pick up any problems with the cable.

The plug should be looked at looking for any damage or signs of discoloration which is a sign of overheating.
If there is any sign of overheating then it should be replaced.

Also, check the plug socket as this will often show signs of discoloration that is more visible than some plugs because of the plug colors often being brown.

You can perform a test with an electrical tester to ensure the integrity of your cables but this should really only be carried out by a competent professional.

The workbench

This is often overlooked but when the drill press is fixed to a workbench it should be checked to make sure it hasn’t come loose as this part is subject to a lot of vibrations.
It is a good idea to make sure it is nicely secured so it doesn’t cause problems with the drill presses base and the accuracy of the machines drilling.

It also worth checking the stability of the workbench to ensure it hasn’t developed any problems or hasn’t become uneven.

Buttons and switches

These sometimes can get dust in them but it is normally eliminated by manufacturers creating switches and buttons that don’t let the dust enter the inners.
Always test the safety off button numerous times especially after it hasn’t been used for a while.

Screens and protective guards

It goes without saying that it is important to keep any safety guards or screens in good working condition.
Give them the once over and make sure they still perform as they are intended to.

If you look after your drill press machine it will serve you well for many years and will be a very good value for money so just take a little bit of time every few months to inspect it.
This will pay you back many times by running as it should with no breakdowns or replacement parts needed.

Correct sandpaper choice and grades

Anyone who has had the pleasure of having to prepare wood for a recoat of paint or varnish will know it can be hard work. But you will also know how important the preparation is.

It is probably the most important step in refurbing your wood because if you don’t get the preparation correct it won’t matter how well you paint it or varnish it the result will always be a poor looking recoat.

Choosing the correct sandpaper is a really important step to getting your wood prepared for a recoat. Manual sanding is not much fun but there are many times when you can start with an electric sander until you remove many of the outer layers.

Electric sanders

A high-speed belt sander is used to sand large surfaces, such as wooden floors, doors, and anything with a big surface area.

Portable belt sanders are very useful for doing jobs that require the removal of tough stubborn outer layers.

Finishing sanders, also called orbital sanders, are second to none to remove thinner layers.

For small, intricate jobs or for surfaces with many contours sanding work is done by hand, with sandpaper bent to the correct shape or placed on foam or wooden block.

One of the common mistakes people make is the wrong sandpaper choice. The lower the grit rating for the sandpaper the bigger the sanding grains will be. For really tough surfaces the high grit sander paper is the better choice and if you have fine light sanding work to carry out then the higher grit rating is a suitable choice.

Using too low-grade sandpaper that is too coarse can create problems with sanding away at the wood as soon as the paint layers on the wood that you want to remove are gone.
This happens very quickly so you think you are just taking the paint then you check and it has gone too deep and has started to sand the wood down.

This can be a real problem if you are sanding curved or shaped wooden pieces because it will misshape the wood and cause damage to any patterning on the wood you wanted to preserve.

You should take it easy when you are close to the wood and change sandpaper grade to a finer one.

Sanding work is usually done in steps; First thick sandpaper is used until you remove the majority of the outer layers and it is then normally finished with fine grain sandpaper.

Sandpaper grit numbers

Hand sanding block

This block is useful for sanding small flat surfaces. To sand curved surfaces, sandpaper is shaped with a foam pad. The sandpaper fits the shape of the workpiece grooves and contours.

Thick sandpaper No. 60

This sandpaper is used to sand hardwood floors and to prepare tough surfaces. The sander moves counter-grain to remove the material faster.

Medium sandpaper No. 100

This sandpaper is used for better results in the initial polishing of the wood. The sander should move in the direction of the wood grain so that the surface is as smooth as possible.

Fine sandpaper No. 150

With this sandpaper the final finish is given to the surface of the wood. Fine sandpaper is used to prepare the surface of the wood for varnishing; it is also used to smooth the joining edges of pressed fiberboards.

Extra-thin sandpaper No. 220

Extra-thin sandpaper is used to polish the prepared surface of the wood before varnishing, or between layer and layer of varnish.

Finishing sander

A sander for good quality finishes has a high-speed motor and orbital movement; with this sander can be sanded flush in very small areas in terms of workspace. For rough sanding, the sander moves against the grain. Finish sanding is done by moving the sander in the direction of the vein.

Sanding accessories. These accessories are mounted on an electric drill. The following accessories are displayed from top to bottom and clockwise: abrasive disc for quick work, reels and strip disc for sanding contours, and a reel mounted on an adapter.

Sanding Safety

You should always wear a dust mask when you are sanding wood or paint because the fine dust particles can get into your lungs and cause serious damage.
When you are using an electric sander you should also consider wearing goggles to keep the dust out of your eyes. Fine dust can scratch your eyeball and cause problems.
Many electric sanders come with a dust extraction feature so it is worth setting that up if you can.

How to Set up Your Workshop 10 Top Tips

If you are thinking about building a workshop then it is a wise move to take a bit of time to plan out the layout before you get to work.

It’s easy to get carried away and draw a quick layout and then get cracking with it but that is the wrong way to go about it.

A bit of planning will take you a short amount of time and will save you time and maybe even money in the long run.

If you have benchtop power tools you will be installing then include those in the first plan you draw out to discover any issues that may arise well before you install anything.

Any other large pieces of machinery will also need to be included in your first draft and the power source decided.

10 Simple Steps

Let’s delve deeper into the topic directly! The following are some efficient tips that can help you in setting up your workshop perfectly for your endeavors so that you can get the most out of it size-wise and creating a really organized workspace.

1. Draw your plan

Start with drawing a shop layout, you will need to measure your space first and then add all the equipment and workbenches you will be using.

Draw it to scale, the squared paper is really useful for drawing to scale.

You will need to know the sizes of anything you are going to include in your workshop.

Include any power cables that will be feeding your workbench tools or machinery.

 

2. Keep it Convenient

Mount all the tools and accessories near the workbenches. The list should include-

• Saws
• Screwdrivers
• wrenches
• Blades
• Hammer

You can build simple plywood storage boxes or shelves so that you can keep the tools you most commonly use.

 

3. For Large Varied size, Work-pieces Wheeled Bases workbenches Are Good

If you will be dealing with many different sized or shaped workpieces then it’s a good idea to use wheelbases or castors. It will make moving large and heavy materials much easier.

You will need good heavy duty castors just to be on the safe side.

 

4. Look For Unused Space

Check for all available vertical spaces in your shop as these are amazing when used as little cubbyholes.

There you will be able to add overhead storage and it will work as an excellent space saver.

 

5. Create Storage Below

Use the workbench or tables under space for storage whenever possible. You can also fit doors to the underneath of your workbench and hang small items like a steel ruler or saw blades.

Under workbench storage has a large unused amount of space and they are great for storing your larger tools and power tools.

If you are limited to space these are really great ways to maximize the space you have.

 

6. Electrical power outlets

If you already have power outlets installed in your workshop you will want to organize your workshop so it incorporates those into the plan.

If you haven’t got any outlets already in place then you are free to plan as you want.

Check thoroughly and point out the areas where you need electrical outlets. You can also consider using the ceiling space and extension cords. It will award you with clear floor space.

You can consider storing the electrical cables off the ground. Running them along the ceiling will omit the chances of tripping over them.

 

7. If you don’t have any power outlets

If you don’t have any way of installing new outlets and you have some quite close you can get a retractable cord reel and keep power handy. It will still work but it best used as a temporary setup.

Remember you will need to work out the number of Amps you are going to be pulling by calculating all the equipment that is using electrics total Wattage and then using Holmes law to calculate.

You will also work out voltage drop for extension leads that are going to run along a long distance. It is best to get expert advice if you are not competent at working those out

 

8. Recycling is Always Preferable

While setting up the workshop, always utilize the power of recycling if you have the chance.

You can often turn an old cabinet into one that looks new!

 

9. Make it Dynamic

Organize it in a smart way by asking yourself some simple questions.

How many people will be working in it at the same time?

Will they all be able to work in different positions in the workshop without getting into each other’s way?

You should also carry out a risk assessment and try to run through potential accidents especially with the power tools.

 

10. Workshop safety

This is an important one. If you are going to be using power tools you should be familiar with the PPE you will need for operating those tools.

You will need somewhere to store all of your PPE so it doesn’t get covered in dust and debris every time you get the saw going.

You should have a fire extinguisher ready to go just in case you have a worst-case scenario.

The fire extinguisher should be suitable for all fire types.

If you have high powered electrical power tools installed you will need to have some electrical fault fail-safes in place.

RCD’s are the best way to ensure the safety of the electrical circuits which in turn protects you and your equipment.

A first aid box is a must and one with something you can stem any bleeding from a cut inside it.

Always keep a way to quickly switch off the electric in an emergency.

If you are going to carrying out work that creates a lot of wood dust in the air it may be worth installing a simple dust extractor and situating so it will remove the dust-up before it can go anywhere.

Money saved is as good as money earnt

Everyone likes to get their money worth when buying power tools but many people forget to maintain their tools correctly which costs them a substantial amount more in the long run than if they had serviced their equipment.

Router tables are in the higher price bracket so it’s worth looking after your investment by completing some preventative maintenance.

Whether it is about cutting bevels or grooves, the router is the best tool for the job.
Routers are often used with a router table by the operator to improve accuracy and help keep the router stable.

Visual Inspection

The first check on the list is always the same for every Power tool or machinery, turn off the power to the equipment, and then carry out a visual inspection.
This is the most common method of finding any problems that may arise before they have happened.

Look for anything that doesn’t look right and cracked or damaged parts looking closely at all the components that are visible to the eye.

Router Table Maintenance

In order to keep the router table in good functioning condition it is necessary to maintain it regularly this will prevent most problems before they even start to become a problem and save you time and money.

Before you start any maintenance work always unplug the power to prevent any nasty surprises.

Router Table Surface

It is a good to remove the sawdust from the table on a regular basis as this builds up really quickly when you are using a router.

Try to get in the tight gaps or any opening that allows a build-up of wood dust.
While cleaning the table surface, you may use a vacuum cleaner to remove the majority of dust and debris.

Take a cloth and wipe the table gently once you have removed the bulk of the sawdust with the vacuum cleaner.

You can also wipe the base plate with a dry cloth to remove any stubborn debris that has attached itself to that.

Base Plate and Router Bit

The router bit and base plate are the two very important components of this tool.
Your router will function much better if you keep your router bits sharp.
1) Apply lubricating oil on the router bits and it will last longer and cut better
2) Wipe away the excess oil and leave your router bits for some time for the oil to penetrate
3) Check the router bits for any signs of wear and tear. Replace the bits if necessary
4) Remove sawdust from the router bits before you take off the collet
5) Use a vacuum cleaner to remove sawdust from the surface of the router
6) Remove your router table fence and clean the table
7) Take away pieces of wood while cleaning the table
8) Remove the base plate and dry-wipe it
9) Pull apart the cutting bit assembly
10) Assemble all the parts of the router on the table

How to Maintain Router Table Fence

There are two types of router table fences- the solid and split fence. The split fence is the most commonly used of the 2 types.

• Here is how to maintain the fence
• Remove the fasteners
• Pull apart the pieces of the fence and check them for any tear or wear. If you find any problem with the pieces, make sure you replace them or repair them
• Apply a bit of lubricant on the fasteners in order to prevent tear or damages.
• Remove the sawdust and clean your router table fence properly
• Once you clean the fence, assemble all the router parts correctly
• Installing a router is not that easy as it sounds. A minor mistake on your part may lead to you damaging it
• If you are unsure of how to fix the router table you should consult an expert as they have years of experience or you can contact the manufacturer if it is still in warranty

Using Lubricant and Rust Prevention Product

One of the best ways to prevent the moving parts from deteriorating before its time is to use a rust prevention product and lubricant.
Remove the springs and clean them before you apply dry lubricant products on them.

Look in the manufacturer’s manual for your router table and see what lubricant is suitable for you to use.

Router Table Frame

If your router table is a metal-framed one or one that uses bolts to secure it together then it is worth checking the tightness of those bolts from time to time because there is a lot of vibration from the router cutting into the wood and this can cause nuts and bolts to become a bit loose in time.

PAT Test

If you are using power tools in a professional capacity then you will need to have your equipment PAT tested at regular intervals to ensure you are abiding by the law.

Conclusion

Well, regular maintenance is the key to a long-lasting and well functional router table. So make sure, you take proper care of this tool and maintain it regularly. If you keep it in good condition, you will be able to handle your wood projects in the best possible ways. Clean it routinely so that it functions well. If you find any issue, make sure you repair it.

Router Table Safely

Router bits spin so quickly that they demand constant attention from the woodworkers. A minor mistake from your part may lead to injuries. Below are some easy tips on how to work safely with the router.

1.Unplug your router while changing the bit
2. Use hearing protection and safety glasses when you work on the router table
3. Use push sticks and featherboard for the safety of your fingers

Before you start working with this tool, do not forget to inspect it properly along with the router table.
This will help you find any problems with it before you start operating it.

 

If you want to get the best out of you chainsaw and have it working hard for you for many years it is a wise move to carry out some simple maintenance every now and then.

90% of Faults are found with a Visual Inspection

The very first step you should take is to perform a visual inspection of your chainsaw as PAT test professionals say 90% of power tool faults are found by a visual inspection.

A visual inspection may seem obvious but it shouldn’t be neglected because it can prevent serious problems early on and stop the chainsaw from becoming more seriously damaged or even worse potentially dangerous for the user.
No abnormality should stand out at you when you look at it, you should look for broken or cracked parts, loose or damaged cables, loose looking or feeling screws and nuts, and leaking oil or fuel.

Sprocket, Chain, and Bar

The next step is to check the business end of the chainsaw, this consists of the chain, the guide bar, and the drive sprocket.

The chain is the part that receives the most stress and does most of the work so the teeth should be checked for wear and tear regularly making sure they all look similar and there are not a high number of bent or damaged teeth.

Another important check is to make sure the chain is properly sharpened and tensioned as running the chainsaw without out these being properly set up can damage the chain.

As a general rule you are only supposed to sharpen your chain a maximum of 3-5 times but his differs slightly from chain to chain so you should look in the manufacturer’s user and maintenance manual for the exact maximum amount of times you can resharpen your chain cutting teeth.

You can find the manufacturer’s exact maintenance protocols that are specific to your make and model chainsaw in your instruction manual and most of the time online if you haven’t got one.

If you are a heavy user or your chainsaw is quite old you should also check the sprocket and make sure the that is not worn, if it is it will need to be replaced.
As for the guide bar, you must also check the wear of the groove and rails and, if necessary, file and/or turn the chain guide bar over to obtain even wear.

Chainsaw Oil and Fuel Checks

One of the most important checks are the fuel and oil systems, it will be necessary to check the levels of the oils and fuel in the different tanks of the machine.

You will need to prepare the fuel mixture according to the manufacturer’s directions paying close attention to the measurements required.

Go steady when you are filling the fuel tank so as not to soak the other parts of the machine.
The lubricating oil tank for the cutting device is the second tank to be filled up.

Use a good quality oil and one that is recommended by the manufacturer for use with the chainsaw to prevent the oil from freezing and to prevent the tank and hoses from becoming clogged up and preventing the lubrication of all the moving parts of the chainsaw that are vital to your chainsaw running nicely.

Clean the drips with a cloth if they have overflowed during filling. Once the correct levels have been reached, carefully check that there are no leaks in any of the supply lines. If there are, do not use your chainsaw and have it repaired by a competent mechanic or power tool repair shop.

Chainsaw Fuel Filter and Air filter

These should be checked every time the chainsaw hasn’t been used for a long time and also regularly when being used often.

The fuel filter stops and foreign objects from entering the engine and causing serious damage.
The air filter has the same purpose and is more likely to get clogged up.

Luckily it is an easy fix. Remove the filter, clean it the best you can, and put it back on.
After some time the air filter should be replaced to keep the optimum amount of air traveling through it so the engine can use it to mix with the fuel.

Your manufacturer’s instructions will give you some idea of the time periods of when it should be replaced.
Often a visual check can give you a good idea it needs changing as well.

The fuel filter is less likely to get clogged up because it is enclosed and can only be affected by the fuel that passes through it.

You can tell if the filter is partly blocked with any dust or debris by the performance of your chainsaw when in use as it will run very poorly and splutter.

This should be replaced every so often using the manufacturer’s guidelines for the time periods.
Fuel filters and air filters are normally very reasonably priced and don’t cost very much so there is no reason to not change them when they have deteriorated.

Chainsaw Spark Plug

The spark plug is an integral part of the engine and if it has deteriorated your chainsaw will not run very well at all.

You will need to remove the cover with a screwdriver and use a spark plug wrench to remove it.

Look for blackening of the electrodes or deterioration. Spark plugs are not expensive and pay for themselves through the fuel economy so check your manual for the recommended change time periods.

Here is an example of a new spark plug and a bad one that has been in an engine with it being fuel and oil-rich caused by a lack of air.

Triggers and Switches

After that test the function of the various knobs, triggers, and levers. They should slide out smoothly and return to their original position or engage properly depending on their function.
Depending on the machine, these tests are carried out as follows:

• The throttle trigger and possibly the locking button of the throttle
• The choke lever
• The priming pump
• The chain brake
• The buttons on the machine control panel (start, stop buttons)
• The launcher, which must return to its initial position without any problem

Chainsaws used to be a bit of a handful

Maintaining your Electric Chainsaw

The checks carried out for an electric chainsaw are pretty much the same as the steps for the petrol chainsaw apart from the fuel part.

Follow the steps above for the chain, sprocket, and bar part of the visual inspection and then check the oil is not leaking and is filled to the correct level.
You should really check the power cord is not damaged anywhere along its length whilst it is unplugged, looking for nicks in the cable, you can run the cable through your hand as well to feel for any damage or irregularities.

For the cordless models, you should charge your cordless chainsaw battery for the recommended time and check any power level indicators to make sure the battery is still in good condition and charging to 100%.

Cordless chainsaws use high performing lithium batteries these days and although they perform better, charge quicker and last longer they will still fade with age and with heavy constant usage.

Chainsaw Storage

It is very important that you look after the chainsaw when it is not in use.
It shouldn’t be left out in the elements as this will quickly take its toll on all the exposed components causing rusting and all the moving parts to seize up.

Keep it in the case or at a minimum or in a waterproof bag if you haven’t got a case or can’t find one large enough and then store it in a cupboard of the ground.

This will help if the temperature drops and will prevent freezing up of any of the parts.

These simple checks will keep your chainsaw working right for years so you can keep on chopping away without expensive repairs or replacements, this is why all professionals maintain their equipment regularly as preventative maintenance work.